Thrifting in SA: Mzansi Joins the Circular Fashion Revolution
In a world of Shein hauls and impulse buys, it can be nearly impossible not to fall into the fast fashion trap. Everybody loves getting new clothes, but your dream wardrobe could be a nightmare for the planet. According to the World Economic Forum, only 1% of clothing is ever recycled–the rest ends up in landfills and dumps.
So, how do we tackle this problem without ending our love affair with fashion? New data says buying second-hand takes first place.
How Does the Fashion Industry Cause Pollution?
The fashion industry has undergone major changes over the last 100 years. In 1924, most clothes were made from natural, high-quality materials, unlike the thin polyester blends of today. People didn’t buy new outfits all the time, and sewing was an essential skill for mending broken clothing.
The rise of mass-produced clothes made fashion more accessible, but it had a dark side. In 2021, a WEF report revealed that fashion was the third-most polluting industry after agriculture and construction. But what makes it so bad for the environment?
We can break down fashion’s environmental impact into three sections:
- Water pollution
- CO2 emissions
- Textile waste
According to UNEP, the fashion industry is responsible for 20% of the wastewater we produce every year. The chemicals we use to dye and treat fabrics often end up in our rivers and oceans, posing health risks to humans and animals. Cotton farming is also a major source of water pollution and waste in the fashion industry.
Manufacturing clothes requires large amounts of energy and UNEP reports that fashion is responsible for 8 – 10% of CO2 emissions worldwide. These figures include the emissions caused by international clothing trade as most fast fashion travels great distances from suppliers to consumers.
Finally, we come to textile waste. Every year, hundreds of thousands of shirts, dresses, pants, and shoes end up in landfill sites. If they contain polyester, nylon, or any other synthetic textile, they’re made of plastic and will never fully decompose.
Saying “No” to Fast Fashion
The term “fast-fashion” first appeared in the 1990s. It refers to cheaply-made clothes with very short lifespans, designed to be bought on a whim and thrown away after just a few wears. Thanks to social media, today’s clothing trends change rapidly, and many brands sell fast fashion to keep up.
However, there are ways to beat this wasteful cycle.
The first is supporting “slow fashion” – brands that take time to find sustainable suppliers and make high-quality, trend-transcendent clothes that will last. Examples of slow fashion brands in South Africa include Sitting Pretty, Me&B, Sama Sama, and Selfi.
The second option is to buy preloved or vintage clothes. While slow fashion tends to be more expensive, shopping second-hand is accessible on a tighter budget. Today, the second-hand clothing sector in South Africa is worth nearly R10 billion, with thrift stores and charity shops popping up in every city, for example:
- Ons Winkel (127 locations nationwide)
- Hospice charity shops (nationwide)
- SPCA charity shops (nationwide)
- Chic Mamas (Jhb, Durban, Hout Bay, Cape Town)
- Never New, Glitterati, BangBang, Vintage With Love, Oasis, Second Hand Rose (Cape Town)
- Daddy Cool (Centurion)
- Thrift Up, Letsie Thrift, The Curiosity, Frayznix Rack, Yellow Preloved, Kevdon & Co (Jhb)
- The Second Hand Shop, The Vintage Square Thrift Fair (Pretoria)
- Malaki.Second Chances, Dog Box Charity Shop (Stellenbosch)
- St Giles, Granny’s Attic, Castaway Love (Durban)
- Mount View, Patina Bazaar, Doulos (Potchefstroom)
- Vintage PE, The Backroom, Charity Shoppe, Wagtails, The Bargain Box (Gqeberha)
- 2nd Take, Thrift-It, Good as New, Towers of Hope (Bloemfontein)
If you’re not into in-person shopping, you can use thrifting apps Yaga, Thrift Happens, Drip Markets, Wisi-Oi, or Thrifty Ways to buy second-hand clothes online.
Second-Hand Clothing Stats: an Industry Growing Fast
The growing list of South African thrift stores echoes a larger global trend. According to ThredUp’s 2024 Resale Report, clothing resale in the US is growing fifteen times faster than general clothing retail. The market is expected to double in size by 2028.
The report highlights similar growth in all major regions, including Africa, Asia, South America, and Europe. By the end of the year, second-hand clothes will make up a whopping 10% of the clothing industry worldwide.
Interestingly, the top reasons for shopping second-hand have nothing to do with the environment. ThredUp’s report uncovered that Gen Z enjoys thrifting because it helps them find more unique items that better express their personal style. Millennials and Gen X use it to save money and access designer brands for less, while over-60s take part simply for the thrill of deal hunting.
Could Second-Hand Clothes be an Economic Opportunity for SA?
Many of the trends we experience in South Africa originate from the US, UK, China, and other influential countries. Understanding this pattern can help entrepreneurs predict future business opportunities. In the US, over 160 clothing brands, including familiar names like H&M, Zara, Converse, Mango, and Lululemon, now participate in resale.
Following their lead, South African clothing retailers could introduce resale to boost sales and attract new customers. One approach is to allow people to bring in pre-loved items in exchange for store credit. Take-back schemes like these can help you establish brand loyalty among your customer base.
Solo sellers, too, can benefit from the thrifting craze by selling clothes on free apps like Yaga or through an entrepreneurship program at Taking Care of Business. This NPO offers a two-year coaching course called “Resell” that teaches unemployed mothers how to build successful businesses in the second-hand clothing industry. Initiatives like these highlight the significant employment opportunities that the circular economy brings.
Want to Get Involved in Circular Fashion?
The fashion industry can do better when it comes to sustainability. If you’re a designer, manufacturer, textile supplier or recycler, we want to hear from you! eWASA helps businesses, municipalities, NPOs, and community-based organisations implement sustainable practices in accordance with EPR waste regulations.
Become a member today or get in touch for more information.
SOURCES:
- https://www3.weforum.org/docs/WEF_Net_Zero_Challenge_The_Supply_Chain_Opportunity_2021.pdf
- https://www.worldwildlife.org/industries/cotton
- https://www.un.org/en/actnow/facts-and-figures
- https://www3.weforum.org/docs/WEF_Net_Zero_Challenge_The_Supply_Chain_Opportunity_2021.pdf
- https://businesstech.co.za/news/business/778752/the-rise-of-thrifting-in-south-africa/
- https://cf-assets-tup.thredup.com/resale_report/2024/ThredUp_2024_Resale%20Report.pdf
- https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2023/06/recycled-material-could-solve-most-of-fast-fashion-s-sustainability-problems-here-s-how/